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I never received the second mail...

well done

Does this apply to studio photography also?

Never film in portrait mode unless you film for TikTok or #Shorts. Even in that case it is not necessary. 😊

If you’re allowing the exposure comp range to guide you, you might as well be using some auto mode. There’s nothing wrong with this. But, you might as well use Auto ISO. Otherwise, you’re just chimping anyway.

This only applies to taking pics of landscapes on a tripod

Brilliant

It doesn't work with me, when I Ctrl click on the RGB Channel and then go back to Layers and choose Curves still the whole image changes lighter or darker, wherever you move the cursor. The same with Brightness/Contrast, again the whole image is affected.

When you choose exposure compensation you are choosing the exposure live and then you can lock and hold

Sorry but I disagree, it all depends on the photo you are taking. Manual mode works superb when things don't change, or does it slowly, if you have to change a photo from a a light surrounding to a dark, the seconds nedded to change the dials, check the eposure meter or better the histogram , the photo opportunity is often gone. Manual is great for "manual shots", if a photo is ok in iso 100 it will also be ok on iso 200- 400- 800. While a photo with shutterspeed 1/100, 1/60/ 1/30 , 1/15 will most likely be not usable. There is no one setting to rule them all.. I would suggest people learn when to use Aperture & shutterspeed priority. Iso is just a volume mode, the other two changes how you photos look and feel. Iso 100... Never use it unless is suppersunny on the beach.

An interesting video. I watch a lot of videos on photography by pros and I've never seen one suggest using manual except in certain circumstances. Usually they they suggest using auto ISO, maybe with a limit. ISO isn't normally used creatively, unless you want noise. Then use shutter or aperture priority depending on what you're shooting. In fast changing lighting I'd guess the camera is better and changing quickly.

For moving wildlife bracketing will not work. Typically a shutter speed of 1/500 - 1/000 sec is used. For birds in flight 1/2000 sec. For humming birds in flight 1/4000 sec. We sometimes have to live with high ISO values and noise post-processing using Topaz Labs software.

You could use blend if on your layer masks to protect the light, mid tones or darks as required.

People who don't know these basic camera sitting just bought the camera to talk about it an have no interest in being a 'pro' photographer 😊

Aperture controls depth of field Shutter speed controls blur ISO controls brightness Simply use as required to get your desired look. p.s. there is no right or wrong exposure it's all artistic choice p.p.s. there are no rules in photography

I can see that this is one way to do it, which works for you. If you want lots of shots with t[exactly the same exposure, then this is a good approach. However, you are still using the camera’s meter, which is what auto mode does. In camera, it is often hard to see whether you have blown particular highlights or crushed the blacks. I use aperture priority mode (Av) almost all the time. I set the minimum shutter speed to prevent blurring and may alter it depending on the type of shooting. I have the histogram turned on in the viewfinder, so I have a clear indication of whether the exposure is drifting too low or high. Of course, the histogram is also useful in manual mode. Also shoot in raw to maximise exposure latitude.

Steve, you blend entry-level basic information with really useful advice for someone who knows the basics and wants some guidance/reassurance as to the best approach. Thanks for such a clear explanation. My camera (Fujifilm XT-5) is pretty good at handling the noise problem at high ISO levels, so I leave my ISO on auto a lot of the time; I'm much less happy with the Auto-aperture approach (street photography's a different discussion). For some reason, though, I'd drifted away a bit from using full auto: you've given me the confidence to go back to it. Terrific video - thanks so much!

Thanks. Very helpful

This advice is spot on. As a wildlife photog, it’s the single most important thing I did that increased my keeper rate. To illustrate, imagine a bird in flight that moves from a dark forest background up into a bright sky. Left to the camera, settings would change. But as long as the light on the bird remains constant, you don’t want your camera settings changed. Full manual mode ensures that and you don’t have to worry about adjusting settings while trying to track the moving subject. Great video, Steve.

I wish I saw this video when I was starting out. You did an amazing job explaining and simplifying all of these settings. Great educational video.

2:30 the exposure indicator is calculated using the same algorithm that auto mode uses. If you want a great balanced photo, use your camera settings to dial in your LCD to match what you are seeing in your actual photo and your histogram. When those three things match you have a solid baseline to begin your corrections. Next, depending on your order of priority, go into the settings and set the ma/min auto settings for ISO, aperture, and shutter speed you are willing to accept for this particular photo shoot. If you do this every time you will get good at it. Now put the camera in full Auto and take a few test shots. Look at what values it is using then put your camera in manual mode and fine tune it to what you want to see. Once you have done this process a few times it will become habit and you will be able to dial in the camera very quickly every time.

Just bought my first camera, a Canon EOS 2000D Rebel T7 DSLR Camera to get into photography and so far I've only used auto mode because it's so confusing. Most photos I take are indoors with terrible lighting. The only time I get great shots are outside, which is usually not practical. Have watched a lot of videos trying to figure it out and only get more confused. Any suggestions of sites or videos to assist in showing me how to use the different settings is appreciated. Camera bundle also came with 18-55mm Lens as well as Canon EF 85mm F/1.8 USM Lens also comes with the attachable flash.

I tried your method and it worked perfect. Easily understood and easy for me. Thank you.

Cheers so much, this is easy 😊❤

Photo bracketing can also be merged simply using Lightroom Classic

Great job on the tool. Do you think it will be at all possible for you to make it compatible with Corel Paint Shop Pro?

I just use the histogram.

just wanted to say hi and thanks Steve for your great tutorials. Your channel is a great resource of information and presented very well-cheers my man

Canon FV mode is what I use. When using the EVF (electronic view finder) outdoors the scene will show you what your photo will look like. FV is almost Manual mode but I find it easier to react and make changes in FV mode.

Use the live screen duhhh

Outstanding!

Thanks for this. I get a little lost with Adobe. I'm asking myself (and now you) ...what the difference is between this and using masking in Camera Raw or Lightroom to select the foreground and background separately and perform modifications accordingly. Does this do something different or with more precision?

Thanks bro. Always teaching us and helping us improve. 🙏🤛🤜

Spot healing does not work anymore ever since the stupid remove tool all you get is a blurry blob, where you used the healing brush.

👉 Download my FREE Luminosity Masking Plugin for Photoshop: photomasteryclub.com/freeplugin

This is a really helpful YT and I am sure will change my editing workflow. Thanks also for your free cheat sheet download. Excellent.

wow - what a trick to work on sky only , I often made the mistake of changing the sky then it is affected globally . This RGB trick save you one step of editing the shadow in the dark . See you next tutorial sir .

You could have also taken a poor photo?

Thank Steve - I especially like your third tip vs the typical radial filter darkening everyone else encourages

Wow this is amazing, what about if you want to edit a photo in the same way buy in color it is possible with this panel ?

Thank you so much, Steve. Can't wait to try it out!

@4:48 you said the photo is over-balanced "the sky too dark foreground too bright" and so on. But your first edit with those mistakes is better than the re-edit imo. The original is more energetic whereas the re-edit the energy has been taken out.

There’s nothing wrong with a fish walking down the street Steve😂😂😂. Great video

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Wow excellent class thanks for sharing. Make more sense to the eye

Great video, most tutorials focus on using the tools and not on the criteria for making an adjustment.

👉 Download my FREE Luminosity Masking Plugin for Photoshop: photomasteryclub.com/freeplugin

What about people that don't pay for photoshop 🤔

Merci beaucoup pour ces astuces.

Hi I have tried to download and the page you sent me to will not down load any free stuff, I have included the discount code but can not get past the payment page, seems to want my Visa or Pay-pal details ???